We did not know what had happened during our absence, but the big French warship with bark rigging could hardly be recognized; other ships also had made ready for battle without leaving the harbor. Sometime after we dropped anchor we saw a gig coming from Cavite and landing at the Kaiser, and the explanation of this uproar was that Admiral Dewey reported to Washington and Washington had withdrawn their order. Well that's the news we received from the flunkys, and they got it from the officers mess room. Believe it or not.
There were several passenger boats in the harbor with refugees. Searchlights from the American fleet covered the bay and when it hit our ship it was so bright that we could read a newspaper. One time it held our boat for a long time in its glare. The officer of the watch ordered our searchlight ready to throw our beam to the one watching us, they soon changed and that was the end.
It was a dreary time for us as the months went by, the nightly shooting was the only break of the monotony. We had no fruit and fresh vegetables, and were served preserved potatoes brown in color and bad in taste. And there laid a beautiful city with a beautiful country before our eyes. It is a long time from May to August to be confined to a ship with nothing to do. Our officers killed time by catching poisonous snakes from the bay.
It was about the middle of August when we were informed that Admiral Dewey intends to bombard the Spanish Forts, and to stay clear from the line of attack. It was August 13, if I remember correctly, that Dewey started his bombardment at about 9 A.M. and it was a dreary day when his ships sailed back and forth of the City, and the many waterspouts we observed shooting high in the air showed that the defenders aim was far short of the target.
There was a tall flag mast in the city, and we could see the Spanish flag still waving from it. It was about 4 P.M. that we noticed it slowly coming down, and when the American Flag passed the downward Spanish flag, all ships in the harbor fired the 21 gun salute. The smoke from the guns caused a fog over the city of Manila.
Soon we were given shore leave, and we made the best of it. The Pasig River was crowded with sunken vessels, and our first stop was at a brewery in a small park. After we had our fill of beer, we wanted to know why those Spanish were such poor shots. We found some of their cannons inscribed Ano Domino 17?? which should have been in a Museum. I did not see any Spanish people mourning the loss of their war.
How we enjoyed the fresh fruit, bananas we bought that measure from elbow to the wrist. Now that we had our fill of fresh meat and vegetables, our spirit improved with our bodies. Our coal bunkers have been filled, and we are sailing to Hong Kong.
We had not been in Hong Kong since we took Dr. Krebs on his hunting trip to Tsing Tao. In all the Chinese ports we found poverty, filth, and misery, and many, many sampans filled with human derelicts. People are born, live, and die on those small boats. You should see those unfortunate creatures with their butterfly nets fighting among them for a place on the chute where we dump the refuse from the tables, which they try to retrieve to be consumed by them.
What have these poor ignorant heathens done to deserve this living death? There are thousands of christian people in Hong Kong who no doubt have a prayer for those unfortunate heathens, but prayers have never filled an empty belly, and the praying hypocrite knows that only too well.
While we were in Manila, Prince Henry, the Kaisers brother, came to East Asia; we were on shore leave in the suburb of Hong Kong and a couple bicycle rider behind us, one shouting 'Platz da, Platz da (make room)' and the shouter was Prince Henry with his wife.
After an absence of about 5 months we again came to Tsing Tao; there was considerable change, new buildings had been erected, some civilian had arrived, and a German watchmaker had opened a little store.
A lighthouse was to be built on a small island. Applicants for lighthouse keeper had to sign a contract for two years. I was asked but declined, and so did many others.
It is now January 1899 and we are on the Yangtse Kiang River, I do not remember the name of the town, and we are preparing to celebrate the Kaisers birthday. There are 5 wooden Chinese warships in port. We fired the customary 21 shot salute, but it took the Chinese five ships some time before they could make the 21 shots.
In a few months we expect to be relieved from our two year term of service in the Asiatic Station, and it was time to collect some souvenirs to take home. A rumor was circulating that the Arkona was to be sent home and that we have the honor to return that old tub to Germany. She was built in Danzig in 1885, had a length of 73 meter, a beam of 13 meter, and a crew of 268; she also had combined sail and steam power, rigged as a bark; she has several revolver cannons and two 15 centimeter cannons to be moved with tackles, and illuminated with kerosene and tallow candles.
The rumor became a certainty, and I don't remember date or place of departure, but I still see the long pennants tips touching the water and my Japan disappearing on the horizon. It seems incredible, even though I was on my way to my homeland and family, my heart ached for this strange and wonderful country.
Our first stop was Singapore, famous for its zoo, botanical garden, and prostitution. Malay street was for the white daughters of Thamar. Pineapples grow in Singapore, but I had my first taste of that fruit from a can. The city is flat with mountains in the distance. From Singapore we sailed to Colombo. A pretty city, the harbor protected by a sea wall, a tall lighthouse in the center of the city. The people were friendly, the girls pretty and fiery. We walked a road with palms planted on each side, the palm leaves reached half across the street and formed a tunnel.
We next stopped at Maskat at the Gulf of Persia, and the residence of the Sultan of Oman. In Maskat there is a mountain, rocky and bare of shrubs and trees. Names of visiting ships have been painted on that mountain with date. One more reads S.M.S. Arkona April 8, 1899. (S.M.S. means His Majestys ship). We were informed that the Sultan will pay us a visit, and were busy cleaning and polishing as we did when the Kaiser was on the Aegir. He was a good looking gent of medium height, in his late 30's and was accompanied by his son, a lad of about 10. After taking him on a tour of the ship, we demonstrated our revolver cannons on the rocky mountain, and he watched as the rocks rolled down the hill. Then we put our big 15 centimeter gun in position.
The Sultan watched with great interest, he held his jeweled sword close to his side, he had no belt. When the order came to fire we held our positions as we were used to, but the poor Sultan, who understood no German, neither did he know that our old tub made a plunge like a flat bottomed rowboat on a wave. FIRE! Boom, and there sat our Sultan on his buttock, his hands on deck for support, with the most surprised look and his sword about six feet ahead of him.
When he saw us laughing he laughed with us, there was nothing else for him to do. Too bad he did not see the big rocks rolling down the mountain. Our next stop was Bushire, and from there to Basra. Officers told us that about 200 kilometer up the river had been the home of Adam and Eve.
Adam now rests in the church of the holy sepulchre in Jerusalem, and the tomb of Eve is about one kilometer outside of Jidda in Arabia. She must have been of enormous size, because her tomb is about 500 feet long and 10 feet wide. We unloaded Arabs in Jidda in 1894 but I was unaware that I was so near of the first and unborn mother. Back we went to Maskat, the Sultan did not pay us another visit, but sent us some baskets with pomegranate and five cows. The cows were so thin, one could hang his cap on the cows hip. This is a hot country, and about 15 minutes after sunset is darkness. The captain hired native firemen to take our ship to Suez, but we had to take them to Suez; they laid on deck and played sick, but they all had good appetites.
In Aden we took on more coal and water, water was distilled and cost was 60 Mark a ton we were told, and did not dally long in Aden and headed for Suez. Again searchlight and generator were hoisted on board for the trip through the canal. We said goodbye to our Maskat well fed passengers and went thru the canal to Port Said. I had mentioned before that Port Said was a lively place.
They offer you flowers from Jerusalem, and grown in their backyard, sex pictures that would make a whore blush, and souvenirs made in Japan and Germany. Some natives led us to a village of prostitutes. They lined their lips with red paint; now all girls use red paint but not all are prostitutes. We visited the Ferdinand Lessep Monument and the Store of Simon Arzt, whose cigarettes were popular in Germany. The British garrison at Valetta on the Island Malta invited us to take part in their games, but I was more interested what the city had to offer. We entered a place that had a small bar. The back bar had a few dozen bottles with different labels; we wanted some drinks but the lady only shrugged her shoulder. When we took a bottle she showed us that it was water. All her bottles held water, the bar was a blind, all she had to offer was herself in the back room. Poor woman.
Evenings we were entertained by singing and banjo playing Maltese, and asked to drop our coins in their hats while they were sitting in their boats.
We are on our last stretch for the homeport Wilhekmshaven. How long before we will be discharged? What is to be done with the unsichere Heerespflichtige (uncertain candidates). The law reads 3 years plus term of military exchange, which would be September. What was the record of fireman Steiner, punished for back talk, disobedience, etc. What to his credit! All he had to show was 3 red stripes on his bathing trunks.
Swimming was an important part of military training. Non swimmers had to take daily lessons during summer. If one could swim 20 minutes with shoes and clothing, he was rewarded with a red stripe on his bathing trunk, and had to attend 3 lessons per week. Two red stripes were awarded to one who could swim 30 minutes without shoes and clothing, and only two lessons per week. The third stripe was awarded to those that could swim for one hour or longer and were free from compulsory attendance. While Steiner was a good swimmer, he was not a good diver. Diving was to the discretion of the Lieutenant in charge. He would throw bottle beer and hard boiled eggs into the basin, order you to make a dive over the handrail and bring up beer or egg to prove that you had reached bottom. If you came up empty handed you had to dive again.
Sometimes I did reach dirt, but when I came up my hands were empty. But there was no mercy. Bring up something or die in the attempt. At last I came up with something, I had one of the hard boiled eggs in my fist with such force that the egg shell was between my fingers.
High diving was also a thing I could not do; one time I hit the water flat on my belly, I thought that something exploded inside of me. I had to be helped by two comrades to get back to the barracks.
Non swimmers who showed fright were tantalized, two lines were fastened to his waist and then pulled to the center of the basin and asked to swim; when he grabbed for the rope, the rope was slackened, and only pulled in when he was near drowned.
It was the last days of May when we again reached our barracks we had left more than 25 months ago, but did not know if I will be discharged, or have to serve until September. At last the good news came from the Engineer's office that Steiner can go back to civilian life. The big day was June 8, 1899, three days less than three years.
When we were drafted we were given a complete outfit, valued at about 170 Mark, we were allowed 9 Mark for clothing (uniform) money, which we never saw. After the outfit had been paid for, the 9 Mark were credited to us. If we were in need of something, the value of the article was deducted from the balance due us.
If our clothing chart showed that we had money to our credit, this sum plus the outfit belonged to us, and the reservist and his bag sailed for Home Sweet Home.
Before we departed in all directions we had one last souse, where many promises were made and not kept, and our so-called superiors overlooked our disregard for rules. It sometimes happened that a discharged sailor met his "Unterofficer" in a civilian suit borrowed or rented who would spit in his face, and punch his nose for the past ill treatment. His punishment would be about a week in jail, instead of two years in a military fortress if he had his uniform on. If all those Germans fortunate enough to escape military service could be drafted, Germany would have the biggest army.
I am on my way home but not stopping in Nurnberg, in all this time I had not a single line from them.
My arrival at home was a repetition of two years before. Now I am bombarded with questions. Is it true that the Chinese built their houses from the top down? No, it is not true, but their roof is the most attractive part of their house. How do you sail at night when there is no sun, how do you know where you are going? We are guided by the compass. Is it true that some fish can fly? Yes, they are about as big as a Herring and are found in tropical waters. What are your intentions? Will you stay with us or are you traveling again?
For seven years I had planned to go to America, and failed. I intend to go to Hamburg and get a ship to America. I hope that I can do better in America than I could in my native country. Remember the German slogan "Bleibe im Lande and nahre dich redlich" (Remain in your country, and support yourself honestly). But there is another slogan I know only too well: Bleibe im Lande und humbere taglich" (Remain in your country and starve daily).
Two weeks of glorious vacation, spent in eating and drinking, and the time for departure had come. An inexpensive suit made me a civilian again, and two days before my departure, my box with souvenirs had arrived. There was the oil painting of my ship the Prinzess Wilhelm, the silk piece with the embroidered flags, colored scenes from Japan, shells and starfish, a walking cane for Dad with an inlaid Chinese Dragon, and many inexpensive items. A special attraction was a large photo of the Japanese Daibutsu which was taken at Kamakura with some of our boys sitting on his head, shoulders and fold of his dress. It is said to be the most costly monument, and containing 500 pounds of gold.
Mother asked me to go to Nurnberg before going to Hamburg. I could not refuse, and after the reception I was asked why I never wrote, as I had promised; after I told them that I had sent cards from every port beginning at Port Said, and to Tsing Tao, I was shown the only card from Port Said dated April 1897. Stamp and card collectors collected before delivery, and my diary is floating in the Yellow Sea.
Here I am again in Hamburg, no trace of the cholera epidemic of 7 years ago, and I hope no more sorting of coffee beans in jail.
Mother informed me that Fathers cane had met with an accident. Brother Nik asked Fathers permission to show it to some friends; in a dispute someone was hit over the head, and Nik returned the broken pieces.
I went to the Seamens House to ask for a ship, producing my discharge papers from the Navy, and was hired as a coalpasser on the Steamer Petropolis of the Hamburg South American Line. It was a beautiful Sunday in July, when we sailed down the River Elbe toward Cuxhaven. We made short stops at Vigo and Coruna in Spain to take on passengers for Buenos Aires.
The only amusing incident on this long trip was the reception and christening by Neptune. Before crossing the equator, those in the know try to learn if some of the passengers or crew had ever crossed before, if not they were selected for the christening.
A basin is made from canvas and filled with seawater, a throne erected, and Neptune, wearing his long hair and beard made from oakum and a flying fish on his spear, riding on a donkey (two shipmates), preceded by a band of harmonica and primitive instrument players. Seated on his throne next to the barbers chair, he reads the list of landlubbers trying to enter his domain, and orders them to come forward. The candidate is seated in the barbers chair with his back to the basin. The barber with his wooden scissors and razor is waiting, after his haircut the landlubber is asked if he wishes a one or two Mark shave. The difference is in the soap. The two Mark shave is with regular soap and applied with care. The one Mark shave with soft soap is applied liberally and if he opens his mouth to protest he is more unlucky. Shaving completed, the candidate is thrown backward into the basin and doused three times by two of Neptunes policemen, who had been waiting for him in the water, to the joy and amusement of the passengers. After the ceremony Neptune and his band make the round of the ship, and they are rewarded with beer, wine, and smokes by the amused passengers.
We could see the muddy water of the La Plata river before we could see land and Montevideo; we did not stop and sailed on to Buenos Aires.
Sailors try to earn extra money by smuggling revolvers, as there is great demand for them. To avoid the customs is the important thing. If a smuggler has two revolvers, they confiscate one and let him have the other. To confiscate both would discourage the smuggler, and the graft of the customs men. Buenos Aires is a beautiful city and has the worlds widest street. A sailor may not have a girl in every port, but he knows where to find them. In Singapore he goes to Malay Street and in Buenos Aires to La Bocca.
One day a German came onboard, asking for food; we had met before, he was a Hamburger and we had met in Hull, England when I was on my way to London.
After unloading our ship we sailed up the river to Rosario to load grain for the return trip. The return trip was unimportant, we made a short stop at Teneriff (Canary Island) to discharge a few passengers and by the end of September we were back in Hamburg.
Now Steiner was rich, he never had as much money, about 150 Mark. First I bought a good suit and some underwear, then saw some shows, and while sitting on a park bench, smoking a cigar, I began to think of the horrible times I had been through in this city.
South America had been a nice place, but I still thought that Nord America would be better, and I will try to go there next. I went to the Hamburg Amerika Line where I was assigned to the liner Auguste Victoria, which was to sail to New York and then on to Italy; the tour was to take six months, which seemed a too long trip for me, so I was hired to New York and return with another ship. I do not remember the day we left Hamburg, but will never forget the day I at last arrived in the land of my dreams, after three failures.